A glimpse of ancient Wales: the wilder alternative to Snowdon

Only a few miles but a world away from overcrowded Snowdon, the quieter paths and rugged slopes of the Rhinogydd offer a walk on the region’s wildest mountain

As soon as I stepped within the stone circle of Cerrig Arthur, the strange noise began. It came from the far side of the valley – a long, hoarse scream. Then it became louder, growing into an ear-splitting thunder. I jammed my fingers into my ears – but still felt its sonic explosion down in my stomach. The cloud lay low over the stone circle that evening, so it was impossible to tell where the terrible sound was coming from. I might have half-imagined that Cerrig Arthur had unleashed some ancient sorcery, or that this was the return of the legendary king the circle is named for.

But really, I knew what it was. Military training flights often pass over these Gwynedd hills. The roar was a jet fighter streaking right over my head. The disturbance was quickly over. In truth, there were few people to disturb.

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