The third season of restaurant drama The Bear has left some critics cold – what ingredients can it beef up, tone down or discard in the next?
Major spoilers ahead
The third season of the Bear concludes on somewhat of a cliffhanger, albeit an underwhelming one: Carmen Berzatto (Jeremy Allen White), fresh off a funeral dinner for his mentor’s restaurant, gets a Google alert for the Chicago Tribune restaurant review that will make or break The Bear. (If only critics had that power!) We still don’t know whether Syd (Ayo Edebiri) will jump ship for a different, less emotionally intensive job, whether Carmy will ever make amends with Claire (Molly Gordon) or Cousin Richie (Eben Moss-Bachrach) after season two’s freezer meltdown, whether the Bear will crawl out of its debt. What we do know, through Carmy’s anxiety-spiral, fragmented intake, is that the Tribune critic uses such words as confusing, excellent, innovative, sloppy, delicious, inconsistent – in short, a seemingly mixed review. And ironically, a decent-enough take on the season itself, which went down lukewarm with most TV critics.
I’ve been a fan of The Bear, created and largely written and directed by Christopher Storer, since it premiered in summer 2022. The first season was a tour de force out of the gate – confident, frenetic, immediately lived-in, the rare show to capture both the soul and addictive, cortisol-laced chaos of a kitchen. The 10-episode follow-up, released last summer, offered a delicious, if sometimes too indulgent, second helping of character development, cacophony and growth, as The Beef morphed from local Chicago sandwich joint into fine dining upstart The Bear. This season is its third in as many summers – an impressive pace for television, though as my colleague Stuart Heritage has noted, the haste shows. I won’t go as far to say that The Bear is now a bad show, as Slate has argued. But its third outing definitely feels deflated from its previous highs – unfocused, self-indulgent, hollow, admirably ambitious yet frustratingly aimless.
