Choreographer Qudus Onikeku: ‘I want to mirror the real world – vibrant, chaotic, problematic’

Choreographer Qudus Onikeku: ‘I want to mirror the real world – vibrant, chaotic, problematic’

As a child in Lagos, he felt like Billy Elliot, following a passion for dance despite his family’s disapproval. Now, having found success in France, he’s returned to his native Nigeria to mastermind a pan-African creative awakening

Qudus Onikeku could have chosen an easier life. The Nigerian choreographer moved to France aged 20, launched his own company at 25 and within a few years had picked up awards and plaudits, toured 20 countries, performed at Avignon festival and secured regular three-year funding from the French government. He had it made. And then on the verge of being 30 he promptly gave it up, returned two years’ worth of funding and moved back to his home city of Lagos.

Lagos is many things, but easy isn’t one of them. Choked with traffic – cars, battered yellow minibuses and tuk-tuks (known as “keke”) – the city’s scent is petrol fumes. The place pulses with energy: this mega-metropolis of more than 20 million people is growing by 3,000 people a day and predicted to become the world’s most populous city by the end of the century. This summer, fuel prices hit a record high and food inflation rose to 40%. The majority of its inhabitants live in poverty, yet you can turn a corner and find a white-pillared millionaire’s mansion, or an Instagrammer’s dream restaurant with huge AI video screens and your starter served on a cushion like Cinderella’s slipper. It is truly a city of extremes.

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