Hot Dogs by Three Darlings, London: ‘Things that no one needs’ – restaurant review

Hot dogs are meant to be an indulgence, but these ‘gourmet’ offerings are barking up the wrong tree

Hot Dogs by Three Darlings, Dining Hall, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL (0207 225 6800). Hot dogs £19-£22, desserts £12, wines from £50

It is fitting that the Harrods Dining Hall, home to Hot Dogs by Three Darlings, which I visited before the recent re-emergence of the shocking allegations against its previous owner, is reached via the store’s luxury accessories department. Because, like the concessions belonging to Givenchy and Loro Piana standing sentry either side of the doorway, the counter sells things that absolutely no one needs. There, sadly, the similarity must end. For while we might blanch at the price of a Givenchy handbag, we can at least admire the craftwork required to produce one. Nobody in possession of their right wits could admire the work that has gone into these dainty “gourmet” hot dogs, costing up to £22 a pop. Few should want them.

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