The colour and aroma of deepest summer, tomatoes are versatile whatever the weather. Perfect for crisp gnocchi, refreshing gazpacho and baked sausages
This summer has not been the best for tomatoes, but I take what I can get. My plan for growing them on the kitchen roof was thwarted by a long, wet spring and an even wetter summer. So, it is off to the shops I go, returning with a mixed bag of fruit in every colour from acid green to almost black, tiny orange tomatoes like children’s sweets and some still on the vine, that at least come with the heady scent of the freshly picked.
The answer to a tomato whose flavour disappoints is to cook it. The heat of an oven or hob will enrich the fruit’s soul, and the natural seasonings of garlic, onion and basil will work their magic. This month, I baked plum tomatoes with sausages and lentils, and made a fresh tasting soup with smaller fruits, summer carrots and feta. I particularly enjoyed the tomatoes sliced and coated in breadcrumbs. Fried till the crumbs were crisp, we ate them with a herb mayonnaise – I used coriander but basil would be good.