More than a decade ago, I turned to Chef Paul Gstrein to teach me the ins and outs of preparing an Oktoberfest meal of sausage, sauerkraut, and sauteed potatoes. Austrian-born and California inspired, Gstrein is executive chef-partner at The Drake in Laguna Beach.
His sauerkraut is nuanced in delectable ways. The fresh kraut is poured from the jar, rinsed and drained. Diced bacon cooked with thinly sliced onion amp the concoction on the stove; chicken broth, bay leaf, caraway seeds and juniper berries come to the party, too. Sweet-sour elements are also added — a pinch of sugar and a drizzle of sherry vinegar. He enhances the mix by adding slurry that builds rich silkiness.
He uses plump, fully cooked sausages, either Kaese Krainer or Weisswurst. They are often sold at German-themed markets, or they can be purchased online. He carefully heats the fully cooked links; nestled in a saucepan they bathe covered with water kept just under a simmer.
Honeyed whole-grain mustard as well as pretzel bread, served on the side, put the dish over the top.
Cook’s notes: For the potatoes, place 6 medium-size unpeeled Yukon Gold potatoes in a saucepan covered with water. Bring to a boil; cook until just fork tender. When cool enough to handle cut into 4 lengthwise quarters. In a nonstick sauté pan on medium heat, toast potatoes in 3 tablespoons clarified butter (or butter and oil) until golden brown. Toss with 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, and 1 tablespoon fresh chopped parsley, plus salt and pepper to taste.
Octoberfest Sausage with Sauerkraut and Sauteed Potatoes
Yield: 2 to 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
Sauerkraut:
1 teaspoon canola oil or vegetable oil
4 ounces smoked bacon, diced
1 small brown onion, thinly sliced
12 ounces fresh Sauerkraut, rinsed, drained
1 cup chicken broth
5 juniper berries
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
Slurry: 1 teaspoon cornstarch mixed with 2 teaspoons water
Salt, white pepper, sugar, to taste
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
4 fully cooked Kaese Krainer or Weisswurst sausages
Sauteed potatoes, see cook’s notes
For serving: pretzel bread
For serving: whole-grained honey mustard
DIRECTIONS
1. Set a saucepan large enough to hold the sauerkraut on medium heat. Add oil and when hot, add bacon. Cook until bacon renders most of the fat and is just starting to turn brown, about 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add onion and cook until onion softens. Add sauerkraut, broth, juniper berries, bay leaf and caraway seeds. Simmer for 20 to 30 minutes. Stir the slurry; add to sauerkraut little by little, stirring often, to thicken it. Season with salt, pepper, sugar and vinegar.
2. Heat sausages in a water bath (just below a simmer) at about 165 degrees for about 10 minutes until heated through.
3. To serve: Remove bay leaf from sauerkraut. Arrange sausages, sauerkraut and potatoes on plates or a platter. Serve mustard and pretzel bread alongside.
Source: Paul Gstrein, executive chef The Drake, Laguna Beach
Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at @CathyThomas Cooks.com.
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