Brett, Glasgow G4: ‘Comfort food with the chef’s

Very possibly Glasgow’s best restaurant

Glasgow is far chicer that it ever wants to admit. It is a burly, noisy, brown-stone city with a rep for piercing the bubble of anything that is up itself, but there has always been a sleek underbelly of glam to these streets. Only quietly, mind.

Brett, for example, on a corner of Great Western Road, sets out its stall as the polar opposite of a lofty, intimidating restaurant. It’s just a wine bar that happens to throw down a little beef fillet with jersey royals. Pop by for a birthday cocktail, the website seems to say, we’ll cook you a bit of pasta or fish, all while pointing at a menu that includes the likes of fresh linguine tossed in XO-infused mushroom sauce and caramelised leek, and topped with plump Cantabrian anchovies. This is not remotely pub grub and more, “We mean business here – bring a bib!” See also Brett’s gildas, based on that rough-and-ready northern Spanish pintxo bar snack of chilli, olive and anchovy shoved on a cocktail stick; here, however, the gilda is served on a luxurious plinth of chicken fat-encrusted crouton, and the olive and anchovy come with a nerdily engineered hot sauce.