Nigel Slater’s recipes for lemon and spinach linguine, and wild garlic cheese pudding

Nigel Slater’s recipes for lemon and spinach linguine, and wild garlic cheese pudding

Spring is here and we’re turning over new leaves

I made a light and savoury cheese pudding this week – its crust golden, its centre softly oozing. As light as a soufflé, it came from the oven in its earthenware dish, puffed and smelling sweetly of wild garlic leaves. There was a spring salad, too, this time of butterhead lettuce, peppery watercress and cucumber dressed with a mustardy vinaigrette.

Garlic leaves come in bags from the greengrocer, but some will have access to leaves growing wild. We had them in the woods where I grew up and we would pick a handful (no more) to mash into butter to melt on to lamb chops. The rest we left to grow wild, gently perfuming the woods before the bluebells appeared.

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