Walking out of the Charleston airport, we trailed behind a group of women, including one with a gold crown and birthday sash. Clearly this was a girls trip.
And we, too, were there for such a trip, three friends celebrating the five-year anniversary of our friendship and hoping for good food and some sunshine.
Turns out, we found just the place.
We chose South Carolina because we kept hearing about the historic port city of Charleston. A friend’s friend had gone there; a neighbor had just returned from a girls trip, drinking frozen rosé and riding a mechanical bull at El Jefe restaurant.
The city won out over mainstays like Miami and Nashville because it had sun — a must for leaving Chicago in March — and none of us had been there. Plus, so many friends couldn’t be wrong, right?
Charleston’s Instagram-worthy streets have long made it a wedding destination and now, too, a women’s trip destination. Gorgeous scenery abounds, from the brightly colored houses on Rainbow Row to the poolside scene at Little Palm restaurant and the fragrant, blooming wisteria trees.
The city’s tourism bureau actively advertises the Girlfriend Getaway for “4 days to sip, shop & selfie in Charleston,” including candle shops, spa offerings and Parisian cocktails.
The hospitality director of the downtown Guesthouse Charleston, where we stayed, said it often hosts such getaways. “Women travel groups have definitely increased in the last few years,” Kerri Beasley said. “Ages range from early 20s to 70s-plus.”
We arrived on a sunny day in Charleston, escaping cold, driving rain in Chicago. We lucked out with the weather, which featured 70-degree days. But the bright greenery flowing throughout the city and bold colors of the homes would have brightened our winter getaway regardless of weather. Every street seemed to have some hidden courtyard or bright blooms.
Our goal was simple: wine with dinner, interruption-free sleep and some unfettered time to really talk and hang out together.
Charleston itself skews more toward women; the city is 52.5% female, according to census data. And as we kept asking various people we encountered, more than one told us it’s hard to date in Charleston because the apps seem to have way more single men than women.
A guide leads tourists through streets on a horse-drawn buggy in the historic 19th-century downtown Charleston, South Carolina, on April 24, 2019. (Robert Nickelsberg/Getty)
On our first morning, we took a walking excursion offered by Two Sisters Tours, run by two sisters whose family roots in Charleston date to 1793. We heard about Charleston’s history while strolling through streets and hidden nooks we’d never have known were pathways. We learned about everything from how the palm trees are actually palmettos to noting bolts used to repair earthquake damage to buildings.
Charleston is known for its cobblestone streets, many of which we meandered through on the walking tour. We also saw horse-drawn carriages ferrying people on their own historical tours. The city also has many historic houses; we visited during the annual Charleston Festival, which provided access to some private homes and gardens.
We stopped outside the Nathaniel Russell House Museum and toured its garden. If we had more time, we would’ve gone inside to see exhibits about the lives of both the elite and the “enslaved men and women whose forced labor made possible their lavish lifestyles,” according to the website of the Historic Charleston Foundation.
On King Street, the Preservation Society of Charleston has a neat shop with local art and items like feathered jewelry and thoughtful, local children’s books. Proceeds help preserve the city’s character, quality of life and diverse neighborhoods.
The Nathaniel Russell House is seen on March 4, 2024, in Charleston, South Carolina. (Anna Moneymaker/Getty)
Walking along King Street, dotted with shops and restaurants, we saw so many groups of three or four women clearly vacationing together it felt comical at first, but eventually we began to feel a sense of camaraderie. One morning we waved to a group of four ladies on a porch on the same property where we were staying, all with coffees and gold under-eye masks.
The female-heavy vibe felt empowering, not overpowering. We saw bachelorette parties. We saw midlife women celebrating birthdays. We met a waitress whose mom had just come through on her own trip.
Charleston’s restaurants are well known for award-winning cuisine, and we found our experience no different. At Vern’s, often seen on must-visit lists, we ordered multiple dishes, including a delicious pork loin and appreciated the selection of natural wines. Our waiter was patient with our slow decisions, and it was a cozy space to watch the sky darken outside.
We also enjoyed a laid-back vibe downtown at Indaco, where the spicy soppressata pizza had a surprising amount of flavor and the pastas included raviolini with peas and prosciutto.
Sorelle restaurant has an inviting interior. (Peter Frank Edwards)
Wherever you dine, make reservations early as places book up. Even a 7:15 p.m. reservation couldn’t be moved to 8, as many spaces are small and can’t easily shift table plans.
At Sorelle, which opened about a year ago, we found an inviting space with small, elegant touches throughout, including marble imported from Italy. The airy space serves espresso in the morning, inventive cocktails in the afternoon and dinner as well. We went twice.
Over at Millers All Day, we watched women filter in with matching hats or shirts for the popular brunch, boasting a hot honey chicken sandwich and the King Street bowl, a flavorful mix of eggs, grits, sausage, pimento cheese, home fries and sausage gravy.
Millers All Day hot honey chicken sandwich. (Caroline Herring photo)
Server Noelle Verrusio said girls trips are ubiquitous. At a previous place where she worked, which was coated in pink décor, she said, “It was like 15, 15, 15 (in each party) and we were on a wait all the time.”
If she saw a bachelor’s party, she said laughing, “I would’ve been like, ‘Are you guys, OK?’”
When we ventured to Folly Beach, seeing men playing frisbee in the sand brought to mind the feeling of leaving Barbieland and entering Kendom.
Throughout our trip, we encountered Southern hospitality, with people always eager to give us recommendations for activities. Downtown shop Candlefish offers BYOB candle-making classes at $60; or you can try your hand as a mixologist at Sweet Grass Vodka, with classes at $85 per person.
Vern’s is often featured on Charleston’s must-visit lists. (Lizzy Rollins)
Be sure to visit the water. We tried a sunset cruise on the Schooner Pride — cruise options include dolphin spotting — which departed from a harbor by the aquarium and featured a gorgeous sunset; passengers could even help put up the sail. But do note, however, that alcohol is not allowed on public beaches, and police do issue tickets.
As we were leaving Charleston, we were already planning to perhaps bring back the families and stay on the water, driving into downtown for those delicious meals.
On the flight home, I sat near yet another woman returning from a girls trip. So did my friend, in a separate row.
Although we never did try the mechanical bull at El Jefe, it’s awaiting our next girls trip. We’ll prepare to wait in line.
Alison Bowen is a freelancer.
